The
2001 Solstice |
As
trips go, this one was wonderful once we all arrived; but
the traveling was decidedly NOT wonderful. It's become much
less fun to fly, and a lot more punishing than, say, 10 or
20 years ago, IMHO. This time none of our small group of 20
saw our luggage for most of the trip -- Argghh! We had to
live with whatever clothing we'd worn on board, or things we
bought in Lusaka, at their impressively modern Manda Hill
Shopping Mall. Most of us could find whatever important
necessities we'd need as we headed down to Livingstone.
Finally, after the pervasive subtle fear that we'd not be
getting our equipment in time for the eclipse, Tuesday
evening we were told everything had finally been found. Yes
(thank you, super-experienced Tony, who worked on it for
days)! And we got our suitcases and equipment bags in good
shape. Most of the personal items by now had become moot,
(we'd be leaving for home late Thursday, after all),
although it was comfortable and quite pleasant to have other
clothing to wear (example
of coolly detached, nonchalant
understatement...). But one
learns by dealing with such disappointments -- we still
enjoyed our trip a lot. And then as an added bonus, we could
prepare to photograph totality, which I did most of the
afternoon of the just prior day, rechecking angles and every
device. By the looks of the seasonally clearing weather
(which was late to begin this year), we were going to be
treated to a most reasonable shot at observing this one
nicely, without even having to leave the Barn Motel! |
So
it was written; so it was done.
I must admit that when I first saw Kubrick's
"2001, A
Space Odyssey", I laughed
out loud at the opening sunrise strains of Strauss's
"Zarathustra." I knew it so well it then seemed like a
venerable cliche (certainly
it now is), and with thoughts
of Vera Lynn's singing of "We'll Meet Again" to send up the
ending "Dr. Strangelove," it seemed Stanley was being
ironically over the top to start the African Dawn of Man
section of "2001", what Monty Python would later call:
"wink, nudge, say no more." But I was wrong. He DID intend
the literal grandeur of music and image to define this
enigmatic collaboration with Arthur C. Clarke, as a
selection of great moments in history, and of history yet to
come.
(click = big view) I wish I had more than words and
images to offer to you here (sound?
smells?), especially the many
of you who were not so lucky to witness this splendid
eclipse. But I can at least make an attempt to offer up some
very fine images, mixed in with my purple prose, to help
bring back what we saw that day. Just above you can view the
diamond ring that started totality. As predicted by noting
the deep lunar valleys located where the sun's last rays
would shine over, this one lasted much longer than usual, if
not quite as long as the 1977 eclipse 2nd contact, which was
over 11 sec. Being just south of the centerline, as we were,
also enhanced the length of this dramatic "diamond."
(Click for a large panoramic version) Um... still feeling blase? The
first images I saw and shared with you in the preliminary
section at the top were from the small digital camera that
was setup beside the telescopes just for the fun of seeing
what it would produce. You can view the wide angle and
close-up views again above. But after another week to get
the large negatives developed, scanned, and then carefully
processed into some new composite coronal photos, we have
much better to offer you. Some of our best work, big and
clear. Below are two examples.
(click either for a large view) The leftmost image is the first
one I completed via my usual compositing techniques. This
originates from no less than 12 different negatives, of
1/125th of a second all the way to 6 seconds duration, taken
with my trusty Rollei
SL-66 6 x 6 (cm) format
camera, mounted on the 30 year old Nikkor 1200 mm f/11 tele
lens (took it apart and cleaned & aligned it before
leaving). This time the combo was mounted on a
Wimberley
tripod pan head, something
rather new and cool. It's used a lot by wildlife
photographers who need to hold heavy cameras and big lenses
freely, for fast aiming, but perfectly steadily and
securely. It allows you to balance your setup at its exact
center of mass, so that the whole heavy assembly almost
appears to "float" with very little friction (unless you
need or want some). That makes it easy to set up quickly
(there's an extra clever quickmount, too), and acquire your
aim with alacrity.
This is the final gorgeous result.
It looks just as we and many friends remember it. My
negatives were taken with a somewhat shorter lens than Jon
uses, so more outer sky was photographed, but at lower image
scale. Compositing of 12 negatives gave a very smooth middle
through outer coronal, fading into the sky tones. Jon's more
powerful lens showed the inner and middle details to much
better advantage, and the prominences and lunar limb were
visibly sharper, too. I combined these together, and then
began the usual long job of hand-optimizing and tweaking the
final results. There were subtle color casts introduced by
both cameras and films used (happens
all the time, but nearly neutral coronal grays make it
particularly easy to see),
which had to be corrected. The sky tone brightness and hue
had to be made more uniform. And a very small degree of
omnidirectional sharpening was added at the end, to
compensate for the inevitable losses in lenses and scanning
of physical emulsions. This is nothing like the often
exaggerated, rotary-astigmatic unsharp masks that many
eclipse chasers now use regularly, which generate a great
many image artifacts, as the structure is revealed and
dissected more analytically than the eye perceives. Jon's
and my goal has always been to come as close to a naked eye
appearance as possible
(but
not any closer than that... ;^).
The next image above combines the
16 negative composite just described with three x-ray images
taken that same afternoon by the SOHO
EIT and Yohkoh
orbiting satellite solar observatories, beamed back to
Earth. I've combined those which represent very well the
surface of the sun at that same hour, and carefully
"insinuated" the combination into the dark lunar disk
(again,
North is to the top). This
view depicts nicely the interaction between the Sun's
chromosphere and photosphere and the coronal streamers,
helmets and arches. The relationship with the solar
prominences is vivid, it even looks three-dimensional,
especially with such an active sun as we've had this past
year. I thought that the 1999 eclipse was an active type
corona. But this one may have been even better, an excellent
example of a maximum corona. It's amazingly complex and
omnidirectional, don't you think? In another few years you
can expect eclipses to show a narrowing down (away from the
poles) and dimming, with much less activity and complexity,
while the solar disk gradually begins to lose its
spotting. You may also enjoy looking at several other good eclipse websites which cover this totality from other points of view. I've mentioned Jon Kern, and he's posted all of his negatives, in large sizes, too, for several recent eclipses, 1998, 1999 and 2001. He includes additional information on his special radially graded filters, too. |
(Click on each) On
the same trip our small group, well planned for by Tony
Lopes (I'd travel with him again), of East
African Travel Consultants, Inc.,
visited Livingstone, Zambia. A really impressive visit to
Victoria Falls was part of our itinerary. This is another
truly astonishing sight of nature as creator of spectacle.
Just amazing! For me it seemed more dramatic than Niagra
Falls, although I love that powerhouse of a natural wonder,
too. The usual views are of the front of the Falls, with the
thundering mass of water falling before one, generally
raising a massive spray of water and mist, too, so that you
and cameras can easily get soaked! But there's also a path
leading off to the right, up to the side of the Falls just
before the precipice. The water is aerated and becomes a
foamy mass, rushing along to greet the falling edge.
The hotel we stayed in while down
in Livingstone (after a difficult, all day drive in a small
bus down gutted, bumpy roads which were being constructed
while we were there -- many were in much better shape on the
return!) was wonderful: The Wasawange Lodge. It was
off-season, so we were able to get all the rooms we needed,
and at a lower price for our group. The units were actually
individual buildings, or cabins/huts, spacious and most
comfortable. You can get a small idea of the attractive
landscaping of the Lodge from the next shot below left,
taken in front of unit #14, where I stayed for three nights.
To the right is an interior view. The units are hexagonal in
floor plan, with very tall ceilings, nicely appointed. We
observed the astonishing night skies from the slight hill
behind the rooms, with most of the lights turned off. Later
we discovered the beautifully dark and low horizon to the
South passed right over Victoria Falls -- no wonder there
were no tall obstructions of any kind!
No tale of an eclipse chase would
be complete without showing you a brief look at the
equipment. Let's look at another one of the panoramic shots
taken with the Horizon camera (note the curved look of
horizontal lines that the swing lens produces, unless shown
in the special Cinerama style Ultra views, like some above,
where the curvature cancels out). This was an attractive,
comfortable setting to experience an eclipse from. I even
had a chair while viewing -- which may be a first! You can
see the graceful archways our motel section was made up
from, and realize that this was a roofed-in patio, so one
could find shelter from the sun. Meanwhile, the room was
only a few feet behind this spot, certainly convenient. And
having not one bit of cloud threat for three days, naturally
colors my memory of this eclipse as probably the easiest,
most pleasurable one I've yet experienced. Marvelous corona,
too!
Usually I get some static whenever
I forget to include a more personal photo or two, perhaps to
"humanize" the eclipse report (what do I know?), and I've
received requests for some more shots with me all ready to
go, on site. Fine. Here's a pair of photos taken just
minutes before totality, facing the opposite way from the
above shot. You can see how modest the rig has become in
recent years (nothing like the mass of gear we carted around
in the 70's and early 80's). Seems to be the way many of us
become over time: essentials only. The Wimberley tripod pan
head can be seen rather well here. I was at the Rollei, a
solar filter still in place on the lens (removed only some
seconds before totality), and as you can see, seated
comfortably, for a change, cable release in hand. There were
only a few other cameras, you can see the small digital one
to the lower left, while the Horizon panoramic and standard
wide angle cameras were off just to the right, on the
elevated chair used for support. A friend operated the
Celestron 760mm lens in the center, using the same setup as
on the 1984 shipboard
observations described earlier.
(My GPS gave the coordinates: 15 deg 21.60' S, 28 deg 26.66'
E, 3877 feet altitude. It's currently quite visible with
Google Earth, if you navigate to the Barn Motel using those
values.)
Just before we packed and left,
Jon took several photos of his Newkirk Camera to show
several of us the latest incarnation. Let me include a good
overall view here, to supplement what you can see in the
above shot. Note the surveyor's type tripods, one with the
standard three legs, the other modified to rest on two, the
third lying up along the telescope's tube. The electrical
controls are attached via a wire to the coelostat 's motor
drive, so you needn't take your eye from the camera's
viewfinder to adjust the aim, which must be very, very
accurate when using these special radial filters. To the
right below is another shot taken at the Barn Motel that
afternoon. This motel is often used by local Zambians. The
afternoon of the eclipse was no exception, and we discovered
many tables set near the pool for a special lunch and
invited eclipse viewing. The Barn thoughtfully asked some
young local drummers and dancers to come by to provide a
marvelously spirited accompaniment for the festivities
(I
like that lounging figure in the lower
right). They performed over in
the meadow near the Motel's own small water tank, which is
partially hidden behind the tree at center. You can pick out
the tank also in the panoramic totality views above. So we
heard drum beatings from roughly the direction of the
partial eclipse, becoming suddenly quiet during
totality.
That will give you some idea of
the locations. While poor, Zambia is a much more thriving
country than Niger, site of my first African eclipse
adventure, in '73. It's not the Sahara Desert, after all,
but has grasslands, brushlands and many trees (guess I'm not
much of a "desert rat"... oh, well). Some of it resembles
parts of the Eastern US, even to the soil colors, which
shouldn't be that surprising. At one time we were connected
side by side into Pangea, after all. Beautiful country,
which locals describe as "The Real Africa." I can't disagree
with that. And the lovely way the books describe the Zambian
people is perhaps understatement: they gave us so much, and
made our week there something not soon to be forgotten. ©
2008 Wendy Carlos - No
images, text, graphics or design |
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